Moai - Printing
SLA Printing encompasses several steps to achieve good results. Steps are:
Preparation of Model
Many 3D design files are great to look at but are often not ready to print. In this step, the user manipulates the original STL so that can be print on Moai SLA printer using recommended software.
For complete workflow, user can use Moai print guide as the reference.
For individual topics:
Preparation of Moai
Before you start a print, there are couple tasks to check:
The best cleaning agent accessible to most users is Ethanol, follow by IPA. IPA is more toxic and is more corrosive but may be easier to obtain in some countries. Any cleaning agent that is designed to remove oil substances should work but may take more time.
Cleaning instruction with 95% Ethanol is to submerge the print completely and move back and forth for 30 seconds to 60 seconds depending on how complex is the print. Make sure Ethanol can reach every part of the print. In some instances, you may have to remove some support to help Ethanol reach covered part of the print. For very delicate print, you spray Ethanol on the object and let it cleans and drips down. When the dripping no longer contains resin, you can stop. You can use a hair based brush to assist in removing excessive uncured resin from the object.
Some user prefers Ultrasonic cleaner with cleaning detergents. This can be helpful but be careful not to overdo it. Ultrasonic can disrupt delicate features and damage fragile walls. Ultrasonic also heats up, and it is NOT recommended to use it in conjunction with Ethanol or IPA.
405nm UV light is preferred, but 395nm UV light can be used as well. You can use sunlight if you don't have UV light available. Submerge object in water will speed up the curing process as water blocks out oxygen from interfering with the curing process. When you can no longer easily scratch the print with a fingernail, it is cured.