Moai - Printing
SLA Printing encompasses several steps to achieve good results. Steps are:
Preparation of Model
Many 3D design files are great to look at but are often not ready to print. In this step, the user manipulates the original STL so that can be print on Moai SLA printer using recommended software.
steps:
- repair the model from any defects (Meshmixer)
- rotate the model to an orientation that will meet printing goal (success rate)
- hollow (can save resins but not necessary) and drain holes
- add support (Meshmixer, B9)
- Export to STL
- Slice in Cura to GCode
For complete workflow, user can use Moai print guide as the reference.
For individual topics:
Preparation of Moai
Before you start a print, there are couple tasks to check:
- Make sure vat/build plate is clean from previous prints
- Use the included scraper to gentle slide through the vat, exposing the bottom of vat to air and stir up pigments in the resin
- Resin temperature should be at least 20C (68F) degree when printing and ideally at 25C (77F) degrees
- Check resin level, make sure there is enough to print but do not top the line on the resin vat.
Printing
- Power up Moai - Press the power button and Moai should turn on. It will tilt the vat, raise the build plate all the to the top before dropping slightly to home before it is ready to print. If you see the build plate keeps lowering to the vat, power off the printer immediately. Try again and if the situation continues, please contact support.
- Copy the GCode from Cura to the gcode directory on your SD card. Insert the SD card and select the model file from the menu. Confirm to start the print.
- Once print begins, the build plate to drop into the resin vat before laser starts firing. Please wait for the process to complete before walking away
Cleaning
The best cleaning agent accessible to most users is Ethanol, follow by IPA. IPA is more toxic and is more corrosive but may be easier to obtain in some countries. Any cleaning agent that is designed to remove oil substances should work but may take more time.
Cleaning instruction with 95% Ethanol is to submerge the print completely and move back and forth for 30 seconds to 60 seconds depending on how complex is the print. Make sure Ethanol can reach every part of the print. In some instances, you may have to remove some support to help Ethanol reach covered part of the print. For very delicate print, you spray Ethanol on the object and let it cleans and drips down. When the dripping no longer contains resin, you can stop. You can use a hair based brush to assist in removing excessive uncured resin from the object.
Some user prefers Ultrasonic cleaner with cleaning detergents. This can be helpful but be careful not to overdo it. Ultrasonic can disrupt delicate features and damage fragile walls. Ultrasonic also heats up, and it is NOT recommended to use it in conjunction with Ethanol or IPA.
Post Processing
405nm UV light is preferred, but 395nm UV light can be used as well. You can use sunlight if you don't have UV light available. Submerge object in water will speed up the curing process as water blocks out oxygen from interfering with the curing process. When you can no longer easily scratch the print with a fingernail, it is cured.
