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The best cleaning agent accessible to most users is Ethanol, follow by IPA. IPA is more toxic and is more corrosive but may be easier to obtain in some countries. Any cleaning agent that is designed to remove oil substances should work but may take more time.

Cleaning instruction with 95% Ethanol is to submerge the print completely and move back and forth for 30 seconds to 60 seconds depending on how complex is the print. Make sure Ethanol can reach every part of the print. In some instances, you may have to remove some support to help Ethanol reach covered part of the print. For very delicate print, you spray Ethanol on the object and let it cleans and drips down. When the dripping no longer contains resin, you can stop. You can use a paintbrush to assist in removing excessive uncured resin from the object.

I use a small cheap paintbrush that I got from HomeDepot, video of all my cleaning tools here

Some user prefers Ultrasonic cleaner with cleaning detergents. This can be helpful but be careful not to overdo it. Ultrasonic can disrupt delicate features and damage very thin walls. Ultrasonic also heats up, and it is NOT recommended to use it in conjunction with Ethanol or IPA.

Yellow Magic cleaning detergent also works pretty well in an Ultrasonic Cleaner. It's less toxic and no alcohol content. I mix it at 50-75% to water.
If you get one of the cheap Ultrasonic Cleaners from Amazon, they have a heat button and a cleaner button. I don't use the heat button and just use the cleaning button to avoid heating up the model.
If your prints come out with a white film or white substance on the surface, that is because it has been cleaned for too long. The cleaning agent has interacted with the surface resin and started to damage it. For this reason I do not clean some prints with alcohol. I use Yellow Magic to avoid the white film.


405nm UV light is preferred,(like this one) but 395nm UV light can be used as well. You can use sunlight if you don't have UV light available. Submerge object in water will speed up the curing process as water blocks out oxygen from interfering with the curing process. When you can no longer easily scratch the print with a finger nail, it is cured.

A quick and effective method using zip bags:

I use an LED light string I got from Amazon for curing. Some users put the string inside of a bucket, like this video shows or you can put it inside of 2 disposable pans as well, like this video shows.
Over curing is possible, that is why it is advised that you primer or paint prints that are going to be in light for any extended amount of time. Clear resin will turn a little yellow and all resins will get brittle with over curing.
moai/post-processing.txt · Last modified: 2018/05/08 04:10 by peopoly